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The market for organic cosmetics is growing and industry commentators predict “2008 will be a defining year for the natural cosmetics industry.” 

According to a recent report from Organic Monitor, this is the year widespread adoption of natural & organic standards will begin, clearing the currently blurred lines between legitimate natural / organic products and pseudo products.

Regulatory activity is intensifying in the EU and leading European certification agencies will unveil a new European standard in June 2008, after working on the harmonisation of private standards for over a year. Standards implementation is due by the end of the year leading to uniform regulation of certified natural & organic cosmetic products for the first time.

Organic cosmetic growth in the U.S is strong and Austrade predicts retail sales of natural and organic skincare, hair care and cosmetics in the US will reach around $7.9 billion by 2009.

The growth of separate private standards in the US is reportedly of some concern, with a number of representative groups developing their own regulatory guides for release this year.

The impact of natural & organic standards on the cosmetics industry will be debated at the upcoming Natural Beauty Summit America (New York, May 15-17).

Improvements to the regulation of cosmetics in Australia in the past year include the addition of a distinct cosmetic standard to the Australian Organic Standard (AOS).

“The AOS now includes a well regulated and precise set of requirements for cosmetics, compared to previous strongly food based standards,” says BFA cosmetic sub-committee chair Akiko Nicholls.

“Meeting these new requirements does present a greater challenge to cosmetics manufacturers, but there are Australian Certified Organic clients who have overcome those challenges and (in doing so) are delivering products at a high standard actively sought by consumers.”

Eliza McGivern, marketing manager of Australia’s Sydney Essential Oil Co. says the business, which specialises in trade sales of personal care and cosmetic ingredients, is experiencing growth. But she adds there are obstacles to overcome before cosmetics can enjoy the rapid climb experienced by the organic food sector.

“Growth of organic cosmetic products has been weak in comparison to organic food, as the manufacturing standard has only recently been made specific to cosmetics.”

“Nevertheless, demand for the product is increasing and manufacturers are investing in more R&D to make compliant product that also meets the aesthetic demands of the consumer,” she says.

Ms. McGivern says other challenges in the cosmetic sector include:
•         Ingredient availability and cost - “availability depends on the season and seasonal 
           price rises can occur on top of products already at a premium” 
•         Product development – “organic (natural) ingredients perform uniquely and cannot 
          simply be substituted for conventional cosmetic chemical ingredients, so extensive 
          R&D is necessary”
•         Marketing claims – “Products touted as ‘contains organic’ are not truly compliant
          organic products. Those who do pursue and achieve fully compliant certified status
          can find themselves competing on an unlevel playing field in the marketplace and we
          do see evidence of this”

Ms. Nicholls says preservatives and emulsifiers have presented particular problems in cosmetics regulation. 

“We have formed the BFA Cosmetics Sub-committee which allows us to assess ingredient proposals and issues on a case by case basis. Our organic cosmetic standard is still developing and we welcome industry feedback,” she says.

Ms. McGivern says the approval of several emulsifiers and preservatives will open up sector opportunities.

 “Production of organic cosmetic products will increase and a full assortment of personal care products will be available at the highest certification level,” she predicts.

 International cosmetic opportunity has organics covered

Austrade have reported substantial opportunities for the export of all natural, organic and high end luxury cosmetic products to key markets.

These markets include Spain – where specialty cosmetics retail sales have risen 13 per cent since 1998 - and France, where there is reportedly an increasing trend for ‘cosmebio’ (organic cosmetic labels). Environmental concerns are of prime importance to cosmetic and toiletries manufacturing companies in France with a key focus on recycling, biodegradable products and packaging, and replacement of harmful ingredients.

Some opportunities are reported in the Phillipines (one of Asia's fastest growing markets for cosmetic and wellness products). Austrade says Filipinos are starting to appreciate organic and all natural products – however, say heavy introductory marketing such as educational seminars and free samples are required.

In the U.S, growth in retail sales of natural and organic skincare, hair care and cosmetics is expected to be strong (retail sales predicted around $7.9 billion by 2009).

Health warnings, environmental concerns, ethical buying concerns, therapy awareness and organic attitudes have all contributed to growth in popularity.

What other trends are there in cosmetics?

According to Austrade, niche category lines are faring well. Organic could be marketed in combination with the following trends: 
-  Increasing popularity of men’s lifestyle products
-  Rising sales of anti-ageing products to baby boomers
-  Increasing popularity of distinct youth products 
-  Ultra niche products including those containing botanical extracts, plant acids, enzymes,
   herbs, vitamins, proteins, and food ingredients. 
-  Cosmeceuticals – one of the strongest trends in the cosmetics market, also subject to   
   confusion and ambiguity in regulation and labelling. Cosmeceuticals are 'functional 
   products', aiming to combine personal care with some of the benefits of medical or over-
   the-counter/ drug products.  Some cosmeceuticals are naturally derived and some are 
   synthetic.

Sustainable farm practices have been included as one of six major priorities under the Commonwealth Government’s new Caring for our Country initiative.

The initiative, due to commence on 1 July 2008 seeks to re-focus and re-align natural resource management programs.

The Government says it “recognises there is a pressing need to improve the sustainable management of natural resources,” and states it will merge Commonwealth programs to achieve clear goals under a less bureaucratic and more business/investment orientated environmental management system. 

It will provide $2.25 billion in funding over five years (1 July 2008 - June 2013). Existing natural resource management plans that will be integrated into one consolidated program include the Natural Heritage Trust, the National Landcare Program, the Environmental Stewardship Program, and parts of the Working on Country program.

The program will set one to three-year, short environmental targets and says goals will explicitly define what needs to be achieved.

Objectives to date include improving water quality in the Gippsland Lakes, and assisting Indigenous Australians to enter the carbon trading market.

Opportunities remain for landholders under the new system interpretation of the Environmental Stewardship Program.

Landholder opportunities under the Environmental Stewardship Programme

Payments will be made to selected farmers and other private land managers to achieve long-term environmental outcomes on their properties.

$50 million will be made available over four years for contracts with landholders who can provide environmental services on a cost-effective basis under projects that target matters of National Environmental Significance.

The Stewardship Programme will invest in a number of projects, targeting priority high public value environmental assets across the nation as detailed under the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999.

These are, primarily: Nationally endangered or vulnerable species and ecological communities; migratory species and wetlands for which Australia has international responsibilities; and natural values associated with world and national heritage places. 

Land managers will be selected for participation in the stewardship programme through auction, tender and other market-based mechanisms. Contracts will be available for periods of up to 15 years, to allow for the time required by ecological processes to produce an outcome.

* More details are available at  http://www.nrm.gov.au/stewardship/publications/pubs/esp.pdf

HEALTH:  From little things big things grow - why children are driving organic sector                         growth

Children are a big reason for the growth in popularity of organic goods, say major organic industry members.

“A substantial amount - up to a third – of our organic category is estimated to be consumed by a person under eight,” says Rick Carmont, brand category manager with the world’s leading dairy exporter, Fonterra.

Don Fraser, consultant to organic retail success story Macro Wholefoods Market says consumer concern over food origins and ingredients has parents looking for certified organic alternatives.

“This willingness to invest in a child’s health is occurring despite the fact parents may not consume organic themselves.”
 
“Some mothers are buying two separate rounds of groceries – conventional product for themselves, but organically produced for their children,” says Mr. Fraser. 

Monica Waters of Nourish Foods says parents are becoming more aware of a gap in healthy food availability for toddler and above aged children.

“We built a line of kids organic snack food to cater to this. Our research showed while the baby food market is very highly regulated, when it came to food for slightly older children, additives, preservatives, colours and flavours began creeping in”.

BFA spokesperson and nutritionist Shane Heaton says he is not surprised parents are more likely to purchase organic.

“Children are more vulnerable to food toxins than adults – they have a larger intake of food per kilo of body weight and immature organs and detoxification and immune systems,” he says. “And a study released last year found young children exposed to certain preservatives and food colours are more prone to hyperactive tendencies (1)”

Mr. Carmont says young children also are an influencing factor in many farmers’ decision to convert to organic production.

“Particularly where a farming family’s child has health or allergy problems,” he says.

Ulli Spranz, owner of bio-dynamic dairy B-d. Farm Paris Creek says she and her husband changed professions to run a chemical free property when they started a family nearly thirty years ago.

“We wanted to provide a safe environment, manage a sustainable system, and provide families with access to quality food,” says Mrs. Spranz.

She says Paris Creek dairy products are a favourite with young customers and growing families.
 
“Children seem to choose natural products if given the choice from an early age. The most common feedback we get from parents is that their children love the taste.”

Data: University of Southhampton: http://www.soton.ac.uk/mediacentre/news/2007/sep/07_99.shtml

Organics has made a major television debut with four farm documentary episodes now showing on SBS.
 
The series, Loves Harvest, is being run on the SBS program Inside Australia (8pm Wednesday) and relays the lives, trials and tribulations of organic producers to audiences nation-wide.

Produced by Rebel Films Australia, it follows the distinct tales of garlic, cheese, egg and raspberry producers.  Profiles yet to come include ACO-certified raspberry farmers Brad  Smith and Isabel Canty of Fruit Fetish farm in central Victoria (episode 4: Wednesday the 23rd April).

But the pair aren’t about to let a taste of fame go to their heads.

“We aren’t exactly aspiring actors,” says Brad.

“I met (partner) Isabel when we were working together years ago on a conventional apple farm. We decided we wanted to go it alone, and we wanted to go organic… it was such a relief to get out of a chemical based system.”

“We did it primarily for the land and soil health, and also because of personal health concerns on-farm. I didn’t want to deal with substances that were harmful to me, and the environment.” 

Producer Jeni McMahon is adamant the show could not be more timely, and says it reflects growing awareness and interest in food production systems by the wider public.

“More people are interested in where their food comes from - it mightn’t have infiltrated all areas of mainstream living – but there’s evidence of a heightened understanding of food production and ethical farming techniques.”

She says this interest, as well as her own personal belief in organic systems, led her to capture organic stories on camera.

“And I have to say, since being involved in this production, I’ve become a lot more vigilant about keeping to an organic diet wherever I can!”

She says the stories are of interest to anyone curious about food.

“Organic farming is different and so lends itself to a perspective different from the food stories covered (in the past).”

She says she was particularly struck by the commitment of the organic producers she met.
 
“They often did not have a farming background but had made a conscious decision that organic farming was what they were going to do - their way of contributing.”

She says an insight into organic farming would help people understand why a premium price on organic is necessary.

Mr. Smith agrees the series portrayed the struggles of an organic farmer “on marginal land, in the middle of a drought,” well.

He adds the challenge has been worth it.

“The demand for what we are producing is very strong. We supply to retailers and wholesalers in Sydney and Melbourne and they would literally take a thousand times the volume we are supplying if we could provide it.”

Ms. McMahon says she has been surprised at the number and nature of responses to the shows.

“We’ve had farmers ringing up wanting to discuss the size of garlic bulbs they have seen on air, and similar!” she says.

Watch Inside Australia on SBS, Wednesday at 8pm or contact Rebel Films Australia on (03) 9388 2788 for your DVD copy. 

Raspberry recipe of the week

Wild Salmon Salad With Organic Raspberry Vinaigrette Recipe

Warm chunks of salmon are delicious on a bed of zesty arugula. The raspberry vinaigrette adds a sweetness that mellows out this dish perfectly.
1/2 pint organic raspberries
1/4 cup organic extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons organic brown sugar
4 fresh organic tarragon sprigs, finely chopped
1 organic garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon seasalt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup organic whole wheat flour
2 tablespoons finely chopped organic fresh chives
1 wild salmon fillet (about 3/4 pound), skinned and cut into 4 pieces
1 large bunch (6 ounces) organic rocket, torn into bite-size pieces
1 large organic yellow or red tomato, cut into wedges

In a small bowl, mash the raspberries with a fork. Place a sieve over a medium saucepan and push the raspberries through, discarding the seeds. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil, the vinegar, brown sugar, tarragon, garlic, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper. Place over low heat and bring to a simmer.

Meanwhile, in a pie plate, combine the flour, chives, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoons each of salt and pepper. Coat the salmon with the flour mixture.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the salmon and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, turning once, or until just opaque.
Place the rocket and tomato in a serving bowl and toss with the warm vinaigrette. Break the salmon fillets into large pieces over the top of the rocket.
Makes 4 serving

For this recipe and more visit www.organictobe.org

To complete your organic advantage!

Strange but true - organic producers do it differently in the UK

Every morning for the past six months a dairy farmer in the UK has practised tai chi in front of his herd of cows. He says "Animals are very receptive to human moods and tai chi is all about leaving your problems behind and getting into a better zone… The happier I am, the happier the cows are. And the happier they are, the more milk they produce." That’s truly balanced priorities.

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